E is for eggplant parmigiana

D is for Dolmades

C is for Chef's Salad

I never liked chef's salad too much. It always seemed like the cobb salad's less attractive, blander little sister. But I had a number of odds and ends in the kitchen, and, in the spirit of the dish's roots, threw them all into the mix. I used strips of chicken in lieu of the chef's salad's sliced ham, and added cubes of sharp English cheddar. The rest was pretty standard: sliced radishes, chickpeas, cherry tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, sprouts, sauteed mushrooms, shredded carrots and lettuce. The radishes were the best part. I rarely think to buy them, but was happy that I did.

B is for bruschetta

I admit that I don't miss Phoenix all that much. But that doesn't mean I hesitate to steal an idea from one of its few good restaurants: Postino, a wine and small plates affair in a renovated post office. In this case, I stole their signature bruschetta appetizer - so large it could double as a meal. The great thing about bruschetta is that you can feel free to try just about anything. I thought all of these tasted pretty good, but the prosciutto, apple, honey and mascorpone bruschetta was pretty darned good. I paired it with a light salad.



Here are the combinations I made on a battard of rustic sourdough bread:

-Sliced apples, mascarpone, honey, and prosciutto crudo
-Roasted red peppers, diced, with chevre
-Sauteed baby artichokes (see previous recipe for preparation)
-Chicken, sauteed in garlic and lemon, with Genovese pesto
-Figs and roquefort

Salad: mixed greens, blood orange, asian pear, pine nuts, chevre.

A is for artichoke

We are about five weeks behind on posting, so when I made this baby artichoke and chicken fricassee with morels, the artichokes had just hit the shelves. This recipe inspired me to start cooking them more often, and over the ensuing weeks we had baby artichokes many times. The first time around, I underestimated how much of the artichokes' outside layer should be shed before cooking, so we had to do a little maneuvering in the eating. This dish ended up being very rich and tasty.

Ingredients

1 1/2 lemons
12 baby artichokes

6 cups water
2 tablespoons all purpose flour plus additional for dredging
2 teaspoons salt
1 bay leaf

2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 chicken thighs
4 chicken drumsticks
4 ounces fresh morel mushrooms
2 medium carrots, peeled, thinly sliced
2 large shallots, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme, divided
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup low-salt chicken broth

1/4 cup crème fraîche

Preparation

Fill large bowl with water. Squeeze juice from 1 lemon into water; add lemon halves. Tear outer leaves from 1 artichoke until only pale green leaves remain. Cut top 3/4 inch from top; trim end of stem. Cut in half lengthwise. Rub cut sides of artichoke with lemon half; transfer to bowl with lemon water. Repeat with remaining artichokes.

Bring 6 cups water, 2 tablespoons flour, 2 teaspoons salt, and bay leaf to boil in large saucepan. Add artichoke halves and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Drain.

Melt butter with oil in heavy large deep skillet over medium heat. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Dredge chicken in flour, shaking off excess. Cook chicken until golden brown, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer chicken to plate. Add mushrooms, carrots, and shallots to skillet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sauté until vegetables begin to soften, about 4 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon thyme and garlic; sauté 1 minute. Add wine; bring to boil. Add broth and artichokes; bring to boil.

Return chicken to skillet, reduce heat to medium low, cover, and simmer 20 minutes. Turn chicken, cover, and simmer until cooked through, about 15 minutes longer. Transfer chicken and vegetables to platter. Whisk crème fraîche into sauce in skillet; bring to boil. Season with salt and pepper. Pour sauce over chicken, sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon thyme, and serve.

Z is for Za

What is "Za" you ask? Well, it is a variant of the frat house-inspired 'za, or pizza. And, as any scrabble aficionado knows, "za" is an officially recognized word. As for how it works out as a meal: easy to make, and not hard on the tongue, either. I made mine fairly simple, with tomato, basil, and avocado. Maybe next time I add some lemon zest.

Ingredients:

Pizza dough (make your own if you've got the time - I went to the nearest pizzeria and bought some for 3 bucks.
1 ball mozzarella cheese (about 6 oz.)
1 8 oz. can of tomato sauce
3 cloves garlic
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh basil, roughly chopped
1 heirloom tomato, sliced
1 ripe avocado, sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tsp. balsamic vinegar
salt and pepper to taste
truffle oil for finish.

Preparation

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Saute shallot in olive oil for 3-4 minutes. Add garlic, oregano, and half of basil, salt and pepper and cook for one minute. Add tomato sauce and balsamic vinegar. Reduce until fairly thick. Roll out pizza dough to desired thickness (I prefer around 1/2 inch). Spread sauce evenly across dough. Add cheese and tomato and place in oven for 15 to 20 minutes or until crust is dark brown. Add basil and avocado. Drizzle crust with truffle oil (or just use olive oil).

Y is for yellowtail

I was in the mood for some Sicilian-style fish, and this seared tuna with warm olive vinaigrette brought me back to my grandfather's kitchen. The caper/olive/tuna/lemon combo is one of my favorites. Some of the reviewers of this recipe (which, I should add, I adapted from epicurious) complained that the flavors are too strong. I completely disagree, but if you don't like olives or capers then you won't like this either. Serves 2.

Ingredients
4 tablespoons olive oil
two 1-inch-thick tuna steaks
6 Kalamata or other brine-cured black olives, pitted
2 teaspoons drained bottled capers
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar, or to taste
1 plum tomato, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon water
2 tablespoons finely chopped drained bottled roasted red peppers plus additional for garnish if desired
1 tablespoon finely chopped white and green parts of scallion plus additional for garnish if desired
lemon wedges as an accompaniment

Preparation

In a blender or small food processor, blend together the olives, capers, garlic, mustard, vinegar, tomato, water, and salt and pepper to taste. With the motor running add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil, blending the dressing until it is emulsified. Set aside.

In a heavy skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over moderately high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Sear the tuna steaks, patted dry and seasoned with salt and pepper, for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, so they are still raw in the center.

Transfer the tuna to plates and wipe the skillet clean. Pour the dressing into the skillet, heat it over moderate heat until it is hot, and stir in 2 tablespoons of the roasted peppers and 1 tablespoon of the scallion. Spoon the dressing over the tuna, garnish the tuna with the additional roasted peppers and scallion, and serve it with the lemon wedges.

W is for wontons

Continuing on my recent Asian theme, tonight I made shrimp wontons and baby bok choy. I would say for future reference, wontons are probably better as an appetizer than a main course. But a little extra fried shrimp goodness never hurt anybody. I used the extra plum sauce from the ume recipe (see previous post) as a dipping sauce. Makes 6-8 servings.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus vegetable oil for shallow frying
1 tablespoon minced ginger
2 tablespoons finely chopped green onions
1/2 pound raw shrimp shelled and finely chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped water chestnuts
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon white sugar
1/2 teaspoon sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon chili oil
1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water
12 won ton wrappers

Preparation

Place a wok over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil and when hot, add the ginger and green onions, and stir-fry until aromatic, about 1 minute. Add the shrimp and water chestnuts and cook for 1 minute. Add the soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil and chili oil and stir to combine. In a small bowl, combine the cornstarch and water and add to the shrimp mixture, stirring. (The mixture should thicken immediately.) Transfer to a bowl or plate and let cool before assembling the won tons.

Keeping the won ton wrappers covered with a damp kitchen towel, place 1 won ton wrapper at a time on a work surface with 1 point toward you. Spoon a rounded tablespoonful of filling in the center, just above the point. Fold the corner over the filling and roll to tuck the point under. (The won ton should look like a triangle). Pinch the wrapper around the filling to completely enclose, pushing gently to expel any air bubbles. Using both hands, pull the 2 side corners toward you below the filling. Overlap the corners slightly, moisten with a dab of water, and pinch to seal.

Place the filled won tons on a baking sheet and cover with a damp cloth while preparing the remaining won tons. (If desired won tons can be frozen on a baking sheet and once frozen, kept in a ziplock bag for up to 2 months.)

Fill a large pot or electric fryer halfway with vegetable oil and heat to 375 degrees F. Add the won tons in batches and fry until golden on both sides, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and let dry on paper towels.

V is for vindaloo

According to Madhur Jaffrey's Indian cookbook, this is chicken vindaloo the hard way. It wasn't that hard, but it was spicy as hell. (As always, I increased the original recipe's spice quite a bit; the version below is my adaptation.) This made us sweat and want to sop up every last bit with the naan I bought at the Indian Bazaar on Valencia. Serves 6.

Ingredients

2 1/2 tsp whole cumin seeds
3 hot, dried red chili peppers
1 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp cardamom seeds (take seeds out of the pods)
3-inch stick of cinnamon
1 1/2 tsp whole black mustard seeds
1 tsp whole fenugreek seeds
5 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 1/2 to 2 tsp salt
1 tsp light brown sugar
10 tbsp vegetable oil & 3 tbsp. butter
2 medium onions, peeled and sliced into fine half-rings
1 cup chicken stock
2 lb boneless chicken meat, cut into 1-inch cubes (lamb will also do)
2-inch cube of fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 small, whole head of garlic, with all the cloves separated and peeled
2 tbsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp ground tumeric

Preparation

Grind cumin seeds, red chilies, peppercorns, cardamom seeds, cinnamon, black mustard seeds, and fenugreek seeds in a coffee-grinder (or other spice grinder). Put the ground spices in a bowl. Add the vinegar, salt, and sugar. Mix and set aside.

Heat the oil and butter in a wide, heavy pot over a medium flame. Put in the onions. Fry, stirring frequently, until the onions turn brown and crisp. Remove the onions with a slotted spoon and put them into the container of an electric blender or food processor. (Turn off the heat.) Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of water to the blender and puree the onions. Add this puree to the ground spices in the bowl. (This is the vindaloo paste. It may be made ahead of time and frozen.)

Dry off the meat cubes with a paper towel and remove large pieces of fat, if any.

Put the ginger and garlic into the container of an electric blender or food processor. Add 2 to 3 Tablespoons of water and blend until you have a smooth paste.

Heat the oil remaining in the pot once again over a medium-high flame. When hot, put in the meat cubes, a few at a time, and brown them lightly on all sides. Remove each batch with a slotted spoon and keep in a bowl. Brown all the meat this way. Now put the ginger-garlic paste into the same pot. Turn down the heat to medium. Stir the paste for a few seconds. Add the coriander and tumeric. Stir for another few seconds. Add the meat, any juices that may have accumulated, the vindaloo paste, and 1 cup stock. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer gently for an hour or until meat is tender. Stir a few times during this cooking period. Serves 6.

U is for ume

"U" is getting tougher and tougher as we keep going through the alphabet. Pretty soon, I think we're going to have to retire it. But not yet. This week I made squab with ume (Asian plums - be careful, they have a pretty strong flavor). You can, of course, substitute chicken for squab. I think the sweetness of plum goes well with a heavy compliment of ginger and soy, so I altered my recipe accordingly (below). Serves 4.

Ingredients

2 squabs
3 cups chicken stock
1 cup rchopped green onions (roughly chopped)
4 tblsp. minced fresh garlic
5 tblsp. soy sauce
4 tblsp. minced fresh ginger
2 tblsp. dry sherry
2 tblsp. turbinato sugar
1 tblsp. honey
1 tspn. salt
Peanut oil, for frying
Steamed long grain white rice, accompaniment

Ume Plum Sauce:
1/2 cup plum preserves
1/2 cup chopped ume
2 tblsp. rice wine vinegar
2 tblsp. minced onions
1 tspn. honey
1 tspn. minced fresh ginger
1 tspn. minced garlic
1 tspn crushed red pepper flakes
2 tblsp. soy paste
1/2 cup chicken stock

Preparation

Ume sauce:

Caramelize onions in oil. Add ginger and stir for 1 min. Bring remaining ingredients to a boil in small saucepan on low heat. Reduce.

Squab:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the squabs and blanch for 2 minutes. Remove, drain, and pat dry with kitchen towels. Set aside.

In a medium saucepan, combine the chicken stock, green onions, garlic, light and dark soy sauces, ginger, rice wine, brown sugar, honey, and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add the squabs and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes. Remove and dry on kitchen towels for at least 1 hour, and up to 4 hours (refrigerated). Strain the poaching liquid to serve with the rice, if desired.

In a medium pot heat enough oil to come halfway up the sides to 350 dergrees F. Carefully add the squabs and fry until the skins are crisp and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels.

Mound rice in the center of 2 plates and drizzle with a small amount of the poaching liquid, if desired. Place the squabs in the center of the rice and spoon the Plum Sauce over the top of the birds. Garnish with chopped green onions. Serve hot.

T is for tagine

I feel like I am always singing my own praises. But this chicken tagine with chickpeas and mint was dope. I was told to pair it with a wine "with distinct spice notes," which I don't think I did, but it was delightful alongside the pinot noir I chose. I accompanied it with some couscous, steamed in chicken broth and fattened up with butter. The tagine tasted even better the next day. This makes 6 generous servings.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
8 large garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon minced peeled ginger
3 tablespoons paprika
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 cups (or more) chicken broth
2 cups drained canned garbanzo beans (chickpeas), from two 15-ounce cans
1/2 cup canned diced tomatoes in juice
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 lemon, quartered, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons (or more) fresh lemon juice

4 chicken leg-thigh pieces, skin removed, thighs and drumsticks separated
2 chicken breast halves with bones, skin removed, each cut crosswise into 2 pieces
3 medium carrots, peeled, cut into 2-inch pieces
2 cups 2-inch pieces green beans
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint

Preparation

Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, and ginger. Cover and cook until onion is tender, stirring often, about 10 minutes. Add paprika and next 5 ingredients; stir 1 minute. Stir in chicken broth, garbanzo beans, tomatoes with juices, cilantro, lemon, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice. Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer 10 minutes.

Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper; add to pot. Cover and simmer 30 minutes. Add carrots and more stock or water to cover if liquid has evaporated; cook 10 minutes. Stir in green beans; simmer until chicken and vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper and more lemon juice, if desired. Transfer to bowl. Sprinkle with mint.

S is for soup and sandwiches

Never overlook the classics. Sure, you won't see a chicken and pesto sandwich as an dinner entree at most high-end restaurants. But damn it, they're tasty! Of course, you have to remember not to get too excited with the ingredient list - I confess the one listed below is a little too busy. I think one or two ingredients could be removed if you want to safely fit this thing in your mouth.

The curried split pea soup was easy and tasty - a winner.

Sandwich Ingredients

Sourdough baguette
Mustard
Heirloom tomatoes, sliced
Baby spinach
Fresh goat cheese
Roasted red peppers
Avocado
Pesto
Chicken breasts, grilled in with onions ,olive oil, salt, garlic, and paprika

Soup ingredients

2 tbsp. butter
1 cup onion, chopped
1 tbsp. minced fresh garlic
12 ounces split peas
5 cups chicken broth
1 tablespoon curry powder
Salt and pepper

I won't insult your intelligence by telling you how to make a sandwich.

As for the soup, sautee the onion with salt an pepper for 2 to 3 minutes, then add garlic and wait an additional 1 to 2 minutes. Add peas, chicken broth and curry powder. Increase heat to boil water, then simmer at low heat 45 minutes, until peas reach desired consistency. If you want, put the soup in a blender afterwards.

R is for Ravioli

Ok, I cheated. I made these goat cheese ravioli with bell peppers and brown butter with store-bought wonton wrappers. The assembly is laborious despite the wonton shortcut. And, the ravioli need to be handled with care in the pan, as they break easily.

I would make these again, but I'd either prepare the bell pepper mixture in advance or make the ravioli in advance. Otherwise, you're looking at an hour and a half of active prep time. Either way, these tasty ravs are worth it, and they'll keep for a day or two of snacking.

Ingredients

Bell peppers:
2 small red bell peppers
2 small yellow bell peppers
1 small green bell pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup chopped onion
1/2 cup diced seeded tomatoes
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

Ravioli:
Cornmeal for sprinkling
8 ounces soft fresh goat cheese
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for sprinkling
1/4 cup mascarpone cheese
2 tablespoons chopped assorted fresh herbs (such as basil, chives, mint, and tarragon)
18 wonton wrappers

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter

Toasted pine nuts
Thinly sliced pitted Niçoise olives
Chopped fresh chives

Preparation

For bell peppers:
Char all peppers over gas flame or in broiler until blackened on all sides. Place in paper bag; seal and let stand at room temperature 15 minutes. Peel and seed peppers; chop.

Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and tomatoes and cook until onion begins to brown, about 4 minutes. Reduce heat to low; cook until vegetables are very soft and onion is brown, stirring often, about 15 minutes. Add chopped peppers and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper.

For ravioli:
Lightly sprinkle rimmed baking sheet with cornmeal. Mix 8 ounces goat cheese, 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese, and next 2 ingredients in medium bowl. Arrange 6 wonton wrappers on work surface. Place 1 tablespoon cheese filling in center of each wrapper. Using fingertip, dampen edges of wrappers with water. Fold all 4 corners up to meet in center, forming pyramid shape; seal all 4 edges tightly. Pinch top to seal. Place on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling.

Cook butter in large skillet over medium heat until beginning to brown, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes.

Cook ravioli in pot of gently boiling salted water until tender, about 4 minutes. Transfer ravioli to skillet with browned butter. Toss over medium heat.

Meanwhile, rewarm bell pepper mixture; divide among 6 plates. Using slotted spoon, top peppers on each plate with 3 ravioli. Drizzle with any remaining browned butter. Sprinkle with Parmesan, toasted pine nuts, olives, and chives.

P is for pistachios

Simona is always trying to get me to make something light, but flavorful. I am always looking for, well - fatty, salty, and starchy goodness. Here's my version of a compromise: pistachio-encrusted scallops over papaya and tangerine risotto. Presto - best of both worlds. Please enjoy (I did).

Ingredients:

Scallops
1 tblsp. olive oil
6 bay scallops
1 cup crushed pistachios
Salt and pepper
2 tsp. paprika

Papaya and Tangerine Risotto:
2 cups vegetable stock
1 cup cream (or half- and half)
2 tblsp. butter
1/2 cup diced onion
1 cup arborio rice
2 cloves minced garlic
1 papaya, diced
2 tangerines, diced

Triple Pepper Sprout Hash
1 tblsp. olive oil
1/2 each red, yellow, and green pepper, julienned
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup alfalfa sprouts


Preparation:

In risotto pan, melt butter (and a little olive oil to keep it from burning). Add onion, caramelizing until slightly translucent. Slowly add the rice to the pot, stirring constantly to avoid sticking, for about 2 minutes. Add garlic. Slowly add the stock and half-and-half to rice, stirring constantly to avoid sticking until the liquid is absorbed. Add the diced papaya and tangerine. Add salt and pepper, to taste.

Roll edges scallops in pistachios. Dust with Paprika. Sear pan with oil for 1 minute (or 2 - 3, if you like your scallops less rare). Season with salt/pepper, to taste.
While scallops are searing, add oil to pan and and saute peppers. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. (as always, I like a little lemon). Remove from pan, and toss with sprouts.

Serve scallops atop risotto, peppers atop scallops.

O is for orzo

This orzo with tomatoes, feta, and green onions is good and simple. It won't knock you off your feet with its complexity, but it's a solid choice. The leftovers made for almost a week's worth of lunches. The slice of butter was a last-minute impulse and a good idea. (Butter makes almost everything taste better.)

Makes 8 servings.

Ingredients

1/4 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon honey
1/2 cup olive oil

6 cups chicken broth
1 pound orzo

Generous slice of butter
2 cups red and yellow teardrop or grape tomatoes, halved
1 7-ounce package feta cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 cup chopped fresh basil
1 cup chopped green onions
1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted

Preparation

Whisk vinegar, lemon juice, and honey in small bowl. Gradually whisk in oil. Season vinaigrette with salt and pepper.

Bring broth to boil in large heavy saucepan. Stir in orzo, reduce heat to medium, cover partially, and boil until tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain. Transfer to large wide bowl, tossing frequently until cool. Add butter.

Mix tomatoes, feta, basil, and green onions into orzo. Add vinaigrette; toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.) Add pine nuts; toss. Serve at room temperature.

N is for New Orleans-style jumbalaya

Okay, okay - the "N" moniker is a bit of a stretch. But honestly, there aren't that many foods starting with N. And regardless, this one turned out very well, thank you very much - the sort of smokey, down home cookin' that my mom's family used to make when we'd go and visit New Orleans. Wait - my mom's family are Jews from Bethesda. Ah well, I still thought it was good.

Ingredients

1/2 cup olive oil
1 package soyrizo
3 cups yellow onions, chopped
1 cup green and red bell peppers, chopped
1 tsp salt
1 tblsp chopped garlic
1 tblsp paprika
1 tsp cayene pepper
1 1/2 LBS boneless white and dark chicken meat, cut into 1-inch cubes
3 bay leaves
3 cups medium-grain brown rice
4 cups chicken stock.
1/2 pound shelled shrimp
1 cup green onions, chopped
1/4 cup parsley chopped
1 28 oz. can of crushed, fire-roasted tomatoes

Preparation

Place oil in a large pot over medium heat, add soyrizo for 2 - 3 minutes. Add onions, bell peppers, spices (except bay leaves). Sautee for 15 minutes, adding garlic after 10 minutes. Dust chicken with a little extra paprika, salt, and cayenne and add to pot. Brown for 8-10 minutes minutes. Add rice cook for 2-3 minutes. Add stock and crushed tomatoes, bay leaves stir and cover. Cook over medium heat for 30-40 minutes or until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed. Add shrimp during the last 5 minutes and cook until just pink. Remove the bay leaves. Stir in green onions and parsley.

M is for mushroom risotto

There are two ways to play this alphabet game. You can be a stretcher ("l is for lemon basil chicken") or a truist. Faithful to the spirit of the rules, I choose the latter route. This week, my main-letter ingredient featured very prominently in the dish. I am not a fan of mushroom risotto - this creation was an act of pure altruism - and I would trade it in for a more colorful dish anyday. I also dislike risotto's neediness. It's a high-maintenance concoction that truly challenges the compulsive multi-tasker within. And, it's not like you're standing around by the range doing anything exciting. You're stirring. Forever. But if you like making and eating risotto, this recipe works well.

L is for lemon basil chicken with garlic and spinach mashed potatoes

This recipe was a commemoration of our first "date." (And by "date," I mean "bait-and-switch-candlelit-'dinner-party'-with-no-guests-and-let's-not-talk-about-
that-pesky-boyfriend-while-we-chat-it-up-until-four-in-the-morning.")
We've all had one of those, I'm sure. But for everyone's handy reference, this kind of experience goes well with a nice roast chicken. You may not know what the hell you're getting yourself into, but at least you'll both be well fed. And it tastes even better the second time around.

Ingredients

chicken and potatoes

1 whole chicken
2 lemons, sliced thinly
1 lemon zest
1 large bunch basil
1-2 sprigs rosamery
5 creamer potatoes
4 cloves garlic, crushed and minced
1 head fresh spinach
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2/3 cup milk or cream

apetizer platter

roasted, peeled red, yellow, and green peppers drizzled with olive oil
asparagus sauteed in oil and lemon juice (salt and pepper to taste)

Preparation

Separate skin on the breast of chicken from the breast so that there are large pockets -- in which to place 2/3 of the basil and sliced lemons. Place remaining basil and lemon along with rosemary in the cavity of the chicken. Roast at 375 for appropriate time based on weight. Boil potatos for 20 minutes or so as well as briefly steaming spinach until wilted. While waiting for water to boil, melt butter in pan with lemon zest, garlic, and a little olive oil. Mash potatoes and add butter, milk, and spinach.

k is for kabocha squash

i made this soup when the weather was miserable and cold, and it hit the spot. don't skip the pancetta. as a reformed vegetarian, i can't emphasize enough the difference a little pork fat makes.

ingredients

1 (4-lb) kabocha squash, halved and seeded
1 cup vegetable oil
20 whole fresh sage leaves plus 1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage
1/4 lb sliced pancetta, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 1/2 cups chicken broth
3 1/2 cups water
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar

preparation

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Roast squash, cut sides down, in an oiled roasting pan in middle of oven until tender, about 1 hour. When cool enough to handle, scrape flesh from skin.

Heat vegetable oil in a deep small saucepan until it registers 365°F on a deep-fat thermometer. Fry sage leaves in 3 batches until crisp, 3 to 5 seconds. Transfer leaves with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.

Cook pancetta in a 4-quart heavy pot over moderate heat, stirring, until browned. Transfer pancetta with slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.

Add olive oil to pancetta fat remaining in pot, then cook onion, stirring, until softened. Stir in garlic and chopped sage and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add squash, broth, and water and simmer 20 minutes to blend flavors.

Purée soup in batches in a blender, transferring to a bowl. (Use caution when blending hot liquids.) Return soup to pot and reheat. If necessary, thin to desired consistency with water.

Stir in vinegar and salt and pepper to taste.

Serve sprinkled with pancetta and fried sage leaves.