Pelling, Sikkim, October 17 - 19

Above: A Sikkimese boy and prayer flags, and Eli sampling tomba, the local millet beer.

Pelling has changed since Eli visited back in 1989. There are significantly more hotels and Bengali tourists than he remembers. However, the people are still remarkably friendly and gentle and the gompas, Buddhist monastaries, are still filled with exquisite carvings and mural work.

Pemayangste gompa was the artistic highlight of our visit -- housing seven manifestations of Padmasambhava, the guru who first brought buddhism to Tibet. Unfortunately, no pictures are allowed. We will say that the angry manifestation, Senge Dradog, is enough to give anyone pause.

Our visit coincided with a massive North Indian puja festival, during which many Hindu families go on devotional trips. Every morning, we were awoken (at 5 a.m., no less) by chants of om navah shivayah blaring from the temples, and at night the pilgrims poured in to make offerings to the goddess. It's been amazing to witness, and the chanting was a nice accompaniment to our morning yoga.