21 December 2007

Prague, Czech Republic, Nov. 7-12



Above: Frank Ghery's Dancing Building alongside the Vltava, and ELi enjoying yet another bowl of gulas.

Prague was something of a 360 degree change from India. As soon as we boarded a European train, we noticed how quiet it was. And how much space we had. And how damn cold it was.

We spent five days traipsing around Prague and visiting all of Simona's old stomping grounds. Eli embarked on a quest to find the best gulas in town. He found his Platonic bowl at U Vystrelenyho Oka, or At The Shot-out Eye, a dirty little pub down the street from Simona's old house with wooden benches, surly customers, a thick carpet of smoke in the air, and a barman who inexplicably wears shorts when it's 0 degrees Centigrade outside. We highly recommend it for the people-watching alone, not to mention the one-dollar pints and tasty fare.

One of Simona's favorite spots in Prague is the city's semi-public pool complex. For a meager admission fee, you can battle crabby old women for lap space in the Olympic-sized pool, swim outside (under the snow!) in the heated outdoor pool, and relax in the scalding industrial "steam room" (which seems to be nothing more than a closet with a really, really, hot steam pipe in it). We rode a tram down the river to duck out of the frigid air and warm ourselves at the pool for an afternoon. It was delightful.

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