24 September 2007

Positano (Amalfi Coast), Sept. 20-22















Arriving in the small village of Positano is a gut-wrenching endeavour. The bus travels along a coastal road, hugging dramatic cliffs that overlook the water. The road has only one lane. The journey becomes difficult when two busses have to pass each other in the midst of bicyclists, fearless motocycle drivers and pissed-off Italians. Hence, the bus smells of a mix of vomit and cheap air freshener. Positano, however, is worth the trip. No one should go to Italy without seeing this part of the country.

Aside from being an idyllic cliffside town covered in beautiful gardens and overlooking a stunning section of the Mediterranean, Positano is famous for one thing: steps. There are many (well over 800 from our room to the Volcanic sand beach below). Thus, our recommendation to visit the place must be tempered by the caveat that this town is not for the weak-kneed. All of the breathtaking views come at a price. However, this did not stop Eli from hunting all over town (and up and down more steps) to find a cart-toting old Italian gentleman, identified by everyone in town as the purveyor of the best granita around.

On our second day here, we went on a day-long hike up into the mountains above Positano and through a couple of small villages. Our legs were exhausted after our drastic introduction to cliffside living. But it was truly spectacular. We met a group of Dutchpersons who were hiking the whole Amalfi coast. They were impressive, but one day was enough for us. After all, we had to get back to sunning, gelatos, fresh pastas, and red wine.

Below: Some of the many, many steps we climbed, and a cactus flower.


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