Darjeeling addendum

On our last night in Darjeeling, we discovered that the little Indian hill town has quite a bourgeois underbelly: the world of gourmet teas. Of course, we could not resist learning more. We visited the tea tasting room in an upscale, guarded (arms and all) shopping center. It was not unlike a Napa winery. We were introduced to the different types of Darjeeling tea, which vary by season and strain. Almost all were delicious. We favored the slightly heavier, stronger teas, and realized that the less coveted strains often are served as a vehicle for milk and sugar because they just don't taste as amazing.

Darjeeling, Oct. 10-12 and 16

Above: Orchids at the Darjeeling botanical garden

We arrived in India very late at night and much to our disappointment the airport's retiring rooms were full, so we had to venture out to a hotel (we had a connecting flight the next morning). Our introduction to Delhi driving was immediate - our taxi driver u-turned and took us down a divided highway on the wrong side of the road, against traffic. Delhi, we'll be back.

The next day, after our connecting flight, we embarked on the journey from Bagdogra to Darjeeling - another experience on the Indian roads, which we shared with cows, chickens, bicycles, rickshaws, trains, children, and even a monkey. We decided to live the high life in Darjeeling, since it was Simona's birthday, and stayed in a room with lots of television channels and morning "bed tea" service.

Darjeeling is full of competing sounds, smells, and sights, some good, some not so much. On the plus side, it has earned its reputation for great tea (usually milky and sweet), and the mountain views are breathtaking. However, the exhaust fumes, ubiquitous honking, and crowds of people can at times be overwhelming. From what we have learned, that is part of the Indian experience.

Europe Photos

We will be trekking in northern India and offline for the next 5 days. In the meantime, those interested can check out all of our Europe photos here.

Vienna, Part 2

First of all, we made it to India. More on that later.

After our night at the Staasoper, we were treated to another musical delight: the Wien Philharmoniker performing Schubert's 5th and Beethoven's 6th symphonies. We bought our tickets the same day and got standing seats again (4.50 Euro), which were fine and provided a good view. During the fourth movement of Schubert, just as Eli was getting a bit weary of standing, he noticed two empty seats in the front orchestra. Simona asked the usher if we could have them, and he said after the intermission, yes. So they were ours. It seems a little wrong to attempt to describe the music we heard without the music itself, so we'll just say that the sound was perfect. As a fellow traveler put it, you heard exactly what they wanted you to hear, exactly as they wanted you to, and each instrument stood out.

We spent Monday, our last day in Vienna, wandering around the botanical gardens and the Baroque Belvedere palaces. The palaces were a bit staid, although we enjoyed their outside statutes.

On Tuesday, we packed our bags and headed for the Indian embassy in Vienna, where no "security clearance" awaited us. However, the bureaucrat administering visas decided, in his discretion, that we probably were not security threats. Simona's plaintive tears may also have persuaded him. So, just two and a half hours before our flight took off, he stamped our passports and we embarked on a mad rush to the airport.

Vienna, Oct. 4-9

ABOVE: Romeo and Juliet reflected in the Staatsoper ceiling, and one of our many home-cooked meals, featuring fresh figs (which are in abundance at Vienna's markets).

Well, sometimes things do not go according to plan. We were supposed to spend only a night in Vienna on the way to India (we had planned to see the city on the way back from India). But we are not in Delhi right now. Apparently, there is this thing called a "visa" that our dumb asses failed to secure. We thought we only needed a permit to see Sikkim, but we were wrong.

So we have been "stuck" in Vienna while waiting for the embassy to clear us. Despite the disruption, it has worked out beautifully. By the good graces of a hostel owner Simona knows from her days in Eastern Europe, we got a sweet apartment right near the center, where we have been cooking up a storm (photo to come).

We must give a shout out to the Nachtmarkt, a huge market in central Vienna full of tantalizing produce, meats, cheeses, and international cuisine. In particular, Pho Saigon bears a congratulatory mention for best Pho this side of the Danube. We were a bit cold and under the weather, and their delicious noodle soup and spicy curry made our sinuses and cold bones happy again.

We spent a romantic evening at the Staatsoper, where we saw an incredible production of Prokofiev´s Romeo and Juliet. We showed up a few hours before curtain and got standing room tickets, which put us directly in front of the stage and close enough to see the dancers´expressions (and, to Simona´s delight, their perfectly shaped derrieres). We are off to the symphony tonight. More soon.

Bohinj lake (Slovenia), Sept. 30- Oct. 3

The Bohinj lake area is simply gorgeous, even if our photography skills fail to capture this fact. Soaring mountains, rushing waterfalls, picturesque villages, and plenty of tasty sausages (if you're into that sort of thing) make this relatively undeveloped stretch of the Julian Alps a refreshing escape. We took the opportunity to get sporty and went hiking, biking, and canoeing through the countryside (we passed on the paragliding, rock-climbing, and ˝adrenaline park˝ ropes course). We spent a great deal of time lounging in our hotel, which offered rooms looking onto the mountains and an excellent heated pool and sauna. Finally, the quaint beer garden next door proved a wonderful way to pass the sunset hours.

Bohinj is a great alternative to the more crowded alp getaways of Western europe, and it's just as beautiful. We would definitely come back.

Ljubljana, Sept. 30 & Oct. 3-4

When I (Simona) visited Ljubljana with my friend Erik six years ago, we remarked that the city was the next Prague - a soon-to-be hip vacation destination for Europeans, and a happening university town in its own right. Last night, Eli and I had the pleasure of sitting outside along the Ljubljanica in perfect weather, sipping wine and watching the Slovenian hipsters at one of the many trendy cafes and bars that now line the riverfront. Ljubljana has arrived.

And, in line with her sister city Prague, she still has a long way to go on the culinary front. Against Simona's strong admonition, I (Eli) decided that I really wanted to try a Slovenian Mexican restaurant recommended by our guidebook. We have never had the pleasure of being served Doritos Nacho-Cheese Chips and packaged ˝guacamole˝ (which resembles real guacamole only in color) as an appetizer. Slovenians also appear to think that Velveta cheese and ˝white salsa˝ (a.k.a. ranch dressing) are Mexican specialities. Lesson learned.

During the days, we walked up to the beutiful castle, ran in Tivoli park, and enjoyed the relative peace and quiet. After Italy, it's very refreshing not to be part of a massive mob of tourists.