J is for Jicama

Simona is always looking for something "healthy" and "light." I usually associate these terms with "flavorless" and "unappetizing." But, in the spirit of compromise, I figured I would give it a go with (1) blood orange and jicama salad and (2) seared tuna and jicama tacos with charred pico de gallo, guacamole, and fresh tomatillo salsa. As you may have noted by the silly color-coding, it was, if nothing else, a colorful meal. Actually, quite tasty, if I do say so myself. Simona said something to the effect of "best date-night meal ever" (at least of those that I have cooked).

Ingredients

Salad:
1/2 medium jicama (approx. 1/2 lb) cut into thin 1/4'' strips
1.5 Blood oranges, sectioned
1 Tangerine, sectioned
1Mango, cubes
1/4 red onion, thinly sliced
1/4 serrano pepper chopped fine.
2 tablespoons olive oil
Juice of lime
1/2 bunch of cilantro leaves
1/2 bunch mint leaves
1 tablespoon Hungarian paprika
salt and pepper to taste

Tacos:
1/2 medium jicama (approx. 1/2 lb) cut into thin 1/4'' strips
Two six oz. tuna steaks
2 table spoons olive
2 tablespoons chili powder
Corn tortillas, warmed
Salt
Pepper

Guacamole:
2 hass avocados
3 tablespoons cilantro
1 vine-ripened tomato, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
salt and pepper to taste

Pico de gallo:
2 plum tomatoes, seeded and diced
1/4 yellow onion, diced
Olive oil
1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro leaves
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1/2 serrano pepper, seeded and diced
1/4 teaspoon salt

Tomatillo Salsa:
2 avocados
1/4 yellow onion
8 tomatillos
4 tablespoons cilantro
Juice of one lime
salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

For salad:
Put fruits and assorted tubers in bowl, cover with lime juice, oil, salt, pepper and paprika. Done.

For pico de gallo:
Char tomatoes and onions in oven set on broil (set close to flame) for 5 to 10 minutes. Combine with serrano pepper, salt, pepper, garlic, cilantro, and lime juice.

For tomatillo salsa:
Combine avocados, onion, tomatillos, tablespoons, cilantro and lime juice in food processor. Puree. Add salt and pepper to taste.

For guacamole:
Combine avocados and spices with garlic. Mash. Add tomatoes and cilantro.

For tacos:
Drizzle tuna steaks with olive oil. Cover both sides with chili powder, salt, and pepper. Sear steaks and cut into 1/2'' strips. Place on warmed corn tortillas with tomatillo salsa, pico de gallo, and guacamole.

I is for Indian curry

It was Simona's turn to cook this week. After some debate she decided that she was ready for Indian food again. This shrimp with spiced masala and coconut milk turned out wonderfully. It was even better the next day, when all of the ingredients had had the opportunity to sit together and infuse the dish. The recipe below was taken from an old issue of Bon Appetit but Simona doubled the spices (the recipe below is Simona's spicier version). If you don't like spice, cut the portions in half and you will get a milder version. We ate it with steamed basmati rice and opted for fruit juice instead of wine (Indian-style).

Ingredients

Masala:
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cups chopped onions
6 large garlic cloves, minced
4 teaspoons garam masala (purchases at the indian store in the Mission)
3 teaspoons curry powder
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 1/2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt

Shrimp:
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 pounds uncooked large shrimp, peeled, deveined
1 13 1/2-ounce can unsweetened coconut milk
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup chopped green onion tops
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Preparation

For masala:
Heat oil in large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add onions; sauté until deep golden, about 20 minutes. Add garlic and all spices; stir 1 minute. Cool to lukewarm. Puree tomatoes with juices and yogurt in processor until almost smooth. Add onion mixture; puree until almost smooth. Season masala to taste with salt and pepper.

For shrimp:
Heat oil in heavy large deep skillet over medium-high heat.Add shrimp and sauté until partially cooked, about 2 minutes.

H is for Hen

This week Eli made cornish game hens in a tomato-apricot sauce. We both really liked the apricots. The hens were a bit unwieldy. The recipie below makes one hen, which can serve two people (or one hungry person).

Ingredients

1 Cornish (game) hen, halved
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup chopped yellow onions
1/4 teaspoon cloves
1 cup canned crushed fire-roasted tomatoes
1 cup dried apricots (coarsely chopped)
1 cup chicken stock or water

Preparation

Sprinkle the hen with salt, pepper and 1 teaspoon cinnamon and brown at 350 for 30 minutes. In saucepan, heat onions in olive oil and cook over low heat 5 minutes, or until the onions are transparent. Add hens and rendered oil. Add about 1/2 crushed tomatoes and the apricots. Cook for additional five minutes. Add remaining crushed tomatoes and chicken stock. Simmer, uncovered, 5 minutes.

New York City, November 12-17

Above: a beautiful Japanese maple at the botanical gardens.

We are behind on our posts, so this will be short. We tried to see everyone we know and love who lives in New York in 5 days. This resulted in eating out a lot, as well as a fair amount of wine-drinking.

Simona fell in love with the delicious happy hippie food at Caravan of Dreams. Try the tofu scramble and the fresh juices. Eli was appalled that he could only accompany his coffee with almond or soy milk. Although it is limited in its range, this vegan restaurant makes for a great pit stop after a yoga session with Patty at Shiva Shala, Simona's favorite place to practice (thanks Jessie!).

We took an excursion to the Bronx to visit the botanical gardens. We hadn't seen fall colors in ages, and the trees seemed wonderfully alive.

Prague, Czech Republic, Nov. 7-12

Above: Frank Ghery's Dancing Building alongside the Vltava, and ELi enjoying yet another bowl of gulas.

Prague was something of a 360 degree change from India. As soon as we boarded a European train, we noticed how quiet it was. And how much space we had. And how damn cold it was.

We spent five days traipsing around Prague and visiting all of Simona's old stomping grounds. Eli embarked on a quest to find the best gulas in town. He found his Platonic bowl at U Vystrelenyho Oka, or At The Shot-out Eye, a dirty little pub down the street from Simona's old house with wooden benches, surly customers, a thick carpet of smoke in the air, and a barman who inexplicably wears shorts when it's 0 degrees Centigrade outside. We highly recommend it for the people-watching alone, not to mention the one-dollar pints and tasty fare.

One of Simona's favorite spots in Prague is the city's semi-public pool complex. For a meager admission fee, you can battle crabby old women for lap space in the Olympic-sized pool, swim outside (under the snow!) in the heated outdoor pool, and relax in the scalding industrial "steam room" (which seems to be nothing more than a closet with a really, really, hot steam pipe in it). We rode a tram down the river to duck out of the frigid air and warm ourselves at the pool for an afternoon. It was delightful.

Old Goa - October 25

Above: Eli contemplating the ruins at the Old Goa watchtower, and a shot of us inside of one of the city's churches.

We took brief respite from the beaches of Anjuna and yoga with Rolf - a trip with some fellow yogis to Old Goa. Yes, the Portuguese once reigned supreme in this coastal state. And, where there are Portuguese, there are cathedrals. Old Goa, the former capital of the region, is a stark contrast to the rest of India. For starters, there are lots of wide open spaces with no people. Moreover, the familiar symbols of Christianity that we thought we had left behind in Europe have returned. All in all, the churches in Old Goa are a mere echo of the many European counterparts we saw in Italy. One even claimed to be modeled after St. Peter's. However, it was interesting to see the living history of this complicated country.

Goa, October 21 - ?????

Above: a church in the middle of the jungle (the Portugese were in Goa for many years) and one of Goa's many beach cows.

When we arrived in Goa we remarked that we could be in Thailand or Belize - this part of India is different than the India we have seen, and much more watered down. They serve raw vegetables in restaurants geared towards westerners, where the food is washed in purified water. The streets are full of young Israelis and Europeans, here to enjoy the beaches and party scene. But a few traces of India remain, namely the crazy driving, ubiquitous cows, colorfully dressed women, and delicious curries.

Our days have been filled with yoga, meals, and beach. We are practicing with Simona's longtime teacher Rolf and have met a number of ashtanga devotees from all over the world, many of whom are here for two or three months.

One of the most exciting parts of our stay here is the journey to yoga practice in the morning: via motorbike. Those of you who know of our driving skills would be very scared at the prospect of either of us operating a motorbike. We decided that Eli was the best candidate for team driver, despite his distracted tendencies, because Simona felt too unsure to negotiate the Indian traffic. The ride has been scary at times due to the many cows, dogs, bicycles, and reckless drivers on the road, but it's also very fun. Thankfully, not so many people are on the road when we are headed to practice at 7 a.m.

Delhi & Siliguri, October 20 & 21

Above: the streets of Siliguri at night, and the inside of Siliguri's temple.

Our journey from the mountains of northern India to the country's southern shores required two stops: in Siliguri and Delhi. Both cities were teeming with people celebrating the Durga Puja holidays that commemorate the victory of the mother goddess over the nastiest of demons. The crows added to the Indian cities' already chaotic natures.

In Siliguri, we stood in line along with the Hindu pilgrims waiting to enter the temple to worship the goddess. We were swept in along with the crowd, among bright lights and more bugs than we have ever seen in one place. The colors of the temple were vibrant and rich, much less subdued than those of Italy's churches.

We made the mistake of riding the metro in Delhi on one of the festival's biggest nights. Added security meant that the station was equipped with metal detectors, but because in India there is no practice of queuing up, getting through the detectors was an exercise in embracing chaos. We found ourselves in the middle of what can only be described as a mob of men trying to shove their way violently into the metro. There was a separate women's entry because the crowd was so rough, but Simona did not get into it. We tried our best to push, shove, and elbow our way just as everybody else was doing, but we are novices, and we found ourselves nearly trampled. It was quite an experience.

We also got to visit Delhi's bustling backalley markets, which are mazelike and sell absolutely everything. Simona practiced her bargaining skills and secured a dozen silver colored bangles for a dollar, probably twice what a local would pay but at least one tenth of what they would sell for at home.

Pelling, Sikkim, October 17 - 19

Above: A Sikkimese boy and prayer flags, and Eli sampling tomba, the local millet beer.

Pelling has changed since Eli visited back in 1989. There are significantly more hotels and Bengali tourists than he remembers. However, the people are still remarkably friendly and gentle and the gompas, Buddhist monastaries, are still filled with exquisite carvings and mural work.

Pemayangste gompa was the artistic highlight of our visit -- housing seven manifestations of Padmasambhava, the guru who first brought buddhism to Tibet. Unfortunately, no pictures are allowed. We will say that the angry manifestation, Senge Dradog, is enough to give anyone pause.

Our visit coincided with a massive North Indian puja festival, during which many Hindu families go on devotional trips. Every morning, we were awoken (at 5 a.m., no less) by chants of om navah shivayah blaring from the temples, and at night the pilgrims poured in to make offerings to the goddess. It's been amazing to witness, and the chanting was a nice accompaniment to our morning yoga.

Singalila Ridge Trek, India & Nepal - October 12 - 16

Above: Impressive Khangchendzonga mountain as seen from Sandakpu, and a telling sign at the peak of our ascent.

Our four days hiking in Northern India and Nepal were hard work but very fun. We did have some problems at the outset. For starters, we began our ascent with the inauspicious sign of Simona coughing up what can only be described as the largest and ugliest piece of phlegm I have ever seen. Second, we had to replace our hungover guide after about three hours of hiking. However, after that, things went breezily.

As far as treks go, it wasn't the most difficult: the highest point was 3636 meters. However, as the photo of the sign above attests, there were some pretty difficult patches (particularly the five hour descent from the Sandakpu peak). The views, however, were well worth the effort.

We had the pleasure of meeting many local villagers along the way, who fed us their deliciously simple staple dish - rice, dal (lentil curry) and curried vegetables. There were many beautiful flora along the way, but we recommend to anyone interested in this trek to come in April/May - our guide says that at that time the mountains are "on fire with wildflowers."

Darjeeling addendum

On our last night in Darjeeling, we discovered that the little Indian hill town has quite a bourgeois underbelly: the world of gourmet teas. Of course, we could not resist learning more. We visited the tea tasting room in an upscale, guarded (arms and all) shopping center. It was not unlike a Napa winery. We were introduced to the different types of Darjeeling tea, which vary by season and strain. Almost all were delicious. We favored the slightly heavier, stronger teas, and realized that the less coveted strains often are served as a vehicle for milk and sugar because they just don't taste as amazing.

Darjeeling, Oct. 10-12 and 16

Above: Orchids at the Darjeeling botanical garden

We arrived in India very late at night and much to our disappointment the airport's retiring rooms were full, so we had to venture out to a hotel (we had a connecting flight the next morning). Our introduction to Delhi driving was immediate - our taxi driver u-turned and took us down a divided highway on the wrong side of the road, against traffic. Delhi, we'll be back.

The next day, after our connecting flight, we embarked on the journey from Bagdogra to Darjeeling - another experience on the Indian roads, which we shared with cows, chickens, bicycles, rickshaws, trains, children, and even a monkey. We decided to live the high life in Darjeeling, since it was Simona's birthday, and stayed in a room with lots of television channels and morning "bed tea" service.

Darjeeling is full of competing sounds, smells, and sights, some good, some not so much. On the plus side, it has earned its reputation for great tea (usually milky and sweet), and the mountain views are breathtaking. However, the exhaust fumes, ubiquitous honking, and crowds of people can at times be overwhelming. From what we have learned, that is part of the Indian experience.

Europe Photos

We will be trekking in northern India and offline for the next 5 days. In the meantime, those interested can check out all of our Europe photos here.

Vienna, Part 2

First of all, we made it to India. More on that later.

After our night at the Staasoper, we were treated to another musical delight: the Wien Philharmoniker performing Schubert's 5th and Beethoven's 6th symphonies. We bought our tickets the same day and got standing seats again (4.50 Euro), which were fine and provided a good view. During the fourth movement of Schubert, just as Eli was getting a bit weary of standing, he noticed two empty seats in the front orchestra. Simona asked the usher if we could have them, and he said after the intermission, yes. So they were ours. It seems a little wrong to attempt to describe the music we heard without the music itself, so we'll just say that the sound was perfect. As a fellow traveler put it, you heard exactly what they wanted you to hear, exactly as they wanted you to, and each instrument stood out.

We spent Monday, our last day in Vienna, wandering around the botanical gardens and the Baroque Belvedere palaces. The palaces were a bit staid, although we enjoyed their outside statutes.

On Tuesday, we packed our bags and headed for the Indian embassy in Vienna, where no "security clearance" awaited us. However, the bureaucrat administering visas decided, in his discretion, that we probably were not security threats. Simona's plaintive tears may also have persuaded him. So, just two and a half hours before our flight took off, he stamped our passports and we embarked on a mad rush to the airport.

Vienna, Oct. 4-9

ABOVE: Romeo and Juliet reflected in the Staatsoper ceiling, and one of our many home-cooked meals, featuring fresh figs (which are in abundance at Vienna's markets).

Well, sometimes things do not go according to plan. We were supposed to spend only a night in Vienna on the way to India (we had planned to see the city on the way back from India). But we are not in Delhi right now. Apparently, there is this thing called a "visa" that our dumb asses failed to secure. We thought we only needed a permit to see Sikkim, but we were wrong.

So we have been "stuck" in Vienna while waiting for the embassy to clear us. Despite the disruption, it has worked out beautifully. By the good graces of a hostel owner Simona knows from her days in Eastern Europe, we got a sweet apartment right near the center, where we have been cooking up a storm (photo to come).

We must give a shout out to the Nachtmarkt, a huge market in central Vienna full of tantalizing produce, meats, cheeses, and international cuisine. In particular, Pho Saigon bears a congratulatory mention for best Pho this side of the Danube. We were a bit cold and under the weather, and their delicious noodle soup and spicy curry made our sinuses and cold bones happy again.

We spent a romantic evening at the Staatsoper, where we saw an incredible production of Prokofiev´s Romeo and Juliet. We showed up a few hours before curtain and got standing room tickets, which put us directly in front of the stage and close enough to see the dancers´expressions (and, to Simona´s delight, their perfectly shaped derrieres). We are off to the symphony tonight. More soon.

Bohinj lake (Slovenia), Sept. 30- Oct. 3

The Bohinj lake area is simply gorgeous, even if our photography skills fail to capture this fact. Soaring mountains, rushing waterfalls, picturesque villages, and plenty of tasty sausages (if you're into that sort of thing) make this relatively undeveloped stretch of the Julian Alps a refreshing escape. We took the opportunity to get sporty and went hiking, biking, and canoeing through the countryside (we passed on the paragliding, rock-climbing, and ˝adrenaline park˝ ropes course). We spent a great deal of time lounging in our hotel, which offered rooms looking onto the mountains and an excellent heated pool and sauna. Finally, the quaint beer garden next door proved a wonderful way to pass the sunset hours.

Bohinj is a great alternative to the more crowded alp getaways of Western europe, and it's just as beautiful. We would definitely come back.

Ljubljana, Sept. 30 & Oct. 3-4

When I (Simona) visited Ljubljana with my friend Erik six years ago, we remarked that the city was the next Prague - a soon-to-be hip vacation destination for Europeans, and a happening university town in its own right. Last night, Eli and I had the pleasure of sitting outside along the Ljubljanica in perfect weather, sipping wine and watching the Slovenian hipsters at one of the many trendy cafes and bars that now line the riverfront. Ljubljana has arrived.

And, in line with her sister city Prague, she still has a long way to go on the culinary front. Against Simona's strong admonition, I (Eli) decided that I really wanted to try a Slovenian Mexican restaurant recommended by our guidebook. We have never had the pleasure of being served Doritos Nacho-Cheese Chips and packaged ˝guacamole˝ (which resembles real guacamole only in color) as an appetizer. Slovenians also appear to think that Velveta cheese and ˝white salsa˝ (a.k.a. ranch dressing) are Mexican specialities. Lesson learned.

During the days, we walked up to the beutiful castle, ran in Tivoli park, and enjoyed the relative peace and quiet. After Italy, it's very refreshing not to be part of a massive mob of tourists.

Venezia, Sept. 28-29

Above: Modern art along the grand canal (part of the Bienniale), and a more classic shot taken from a canal boat

Aaah, Venice. Trappingly touristy, overflowing with art, mazelike, flooding, gorgeously decrepit . . . may you never sink into the waters, which we have been told is your impending fate. We were there for about 24 hours, and it was enough. We ran around like madmen, devouring Titians and Tintorettos until our eyes were blurry, overwhelmed. Not surprisingly, this is what happened last time Simona went to Venice.

Despite our short sojourn, we burned a massive hole in our wallets - this despite the fact that Simona resisted every impulse to buy the thousands of beautiful purses and shoes beckoning her from the store windows.

Our visit coincided with the Bienniale, so we also got to see some good, and some very very bad, modern art. The highlight was a Japanese animated video installation of a pair of hands decorating a dollhouse, set to the ambient beat of thick water drops falling.

Goodbye Italy! We leave you a little fatter and a lot poorer, but a whole lot happier.

Arezzo & Firenze, Sept. 25-28

Above: The cloudy skies over Firenze

We headed up to Arezzo to visit Simona˙s father, Alessandro. Arezzo is a wonderful (if very bourgeois) Tuscan town, filled with artisan shops of every variety. It also appears to sell an inordinate amount of lingerie. Alessandro was a magnificent host, taking us to a wonderful tratoria where I (Eli) had the pleasure of sampling home-made pasta in a wild boar ragu, while hearing Simona˙s uncle Maurizio recount the story of his run-in with a cinghiale. We had two wonderful family meals with Simona˙s aunt Paola and bonded with Simona˙s adorable baby cousin, Niccolo.

And yes, there was more than food in Tuscany, though at times we wondered. We ogled the stunning, and recently restored, Pier della Francesca frescoes in Arezzo˙s church. And we spent a long day in Florence in the pouring rain. Although queuing up is, apparently, de rigeur in the Italian tourist circuit, we drew the line at the Uffizzi, which would have required a four-hour wait in the cold. No thanks. We did see a number of impressive churches in Florence, the highlight of which was San Lorenzo, with its harmonious, peaceful Renaissance architecture.

Roma, September 23-25

Glory be to God and etc. - we decided to visit St. Peter´s Basilica. Apparently, the Catholic Church had and continues to have a tidy sum of money tucked away, and likes to spend it on its home field stadium. I (Eli) have never seen so much marble in one place. Although the artwork, architecture and even the throw-away decorations are impressive, the highlight of the the visit occured when some Russian tourists attempted to cut in front of us in the interminable line. After a British man attempted to thwart their endeavor in English (which they conveniently did not understand), Simona approached them in Italian. Again, "nierozumim." They picked the wrong person to mess with, as Simona proceeded to demand that they get their butts to the back of the line like everyone else, in Russian (or a broken equivalent that was good enough to get them to leave).

We had the pleasure of sharing a fantastic home-cooked meal with Simona˙s cousin, Bianca Maria, and her partner, Maria Rosa (White Mary and Mary Rose - we always liked that). They prepared a Roman feast: pasta with truffle sauce, Roman-style artichokes, delicious meats and cheeses, and the best ice cream in Rome, all washed down with Prosecco and an excellent bottle of Montepulciano. And, we got to whine about politics and were given a resident`s tour of the Jewish ghetto. All in all, it was a fantastic evening.

Pompei, Sept. 23

Above: a victim of the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius as he died, probably from suffocation

Pompei is eerie, beautiful, and irritatingly crowded. Apparently, there is no way to avoid the masses of tourists. Although we were the first ones there, we were followed momentarily by at least 15 tour busses. But we're glad we went.

Positano (Amalfi Coast), Sept. 20-22

Arriving in the small village of Positano is a gut-wrenching endeavour. The bus travels along a coastal road, hugging dramatic cliffs that overlook the water. The road has only one lane. The journey becomes difficult when two busses have to pass each other in the midst of bicyclists, fearless motocycle drivers and pissed-off Italians. Hence, the bus smells of a mix of vomit and cheap air freshener. Positano, however, is worth the trip. No one should go to Italy without seeing this part of the country.

Aside from being an idyllic cliffside town covered in beautiful gardens and overlooking a stunning section of the Mediterranean, Positano is famous for one thing: steps. There are many (well over 800 from our room to the Volcanic sand beach below). Thus, our recommendation to visit the place must be tempered by the caveat that this town is not for the weak-kneed. All of the breathtaking views come at a price. However, this did not stop Eli from hunting all over town (and up and down more steps) to find a cart-toting old Italian gentleman, identified by everyone in town as the purveyor of the best granita around.

On our second day here, we went on a day-long hike up into the mountains above Positano and through a couple of small villages. Our legs were exhausted after our drastic introduction to cliffside living. But it was truly spectacular. We met a group of Dutchpersons who were hiking the whole Amalfi coast. They were impressive, but one day was enough for us. After all, we had to get back to sunning, gelatos, fresh pastas, and red wine.

Below: Some of the many, many steps we climbed, and a cactus flower.

Catania, Sicilia, Sept. 17 - 19

Above: The castle at Acicastello and our overnight train car.

We had a characteristically Sicilian moment on the way to dinner with Simona's family on Tuesday night. As we helped Simona's grandmother across the street (her hip was broken during a recent violent mugging, perhaps another Sicilian moment we do not wish on anyone), an approaching vehicle nearly ran us down. The car was running a red light. When we gestured for it to not kill us, the driver responded with a string of Sicilian dialect curses and angry gestures. To which Simona's uncle replied in turn, in preverbal rage.

As must be inferred in the remaining posts from our Italian vacation, the food was outstanding. Simona demands that recognition be afforded to the exquisite sorbet she consumed in the piazza in front of the castle in Aci Castello (pictures to follow, after we figure out the whole "technology" thing). It was berry flavored and made that morning by the bar owner's husband, with only berries, lemon, and sugar, we were assured. We loused about eating other good food (shout out to Simona's grandmother, the talented, but curmudgeony, chef) and swimming in the sea, until we exited just as pleasantly in our own private couchette in the overnight train.

New York City Sept. 12-16

We heart NY. Despite Simona's years of defectation, it still is home. Eli is entrenched in the NYC honeymoon phase (having visited the place with a number of native New Yorkers as his guides, but never having lived here).

We've spent the days seeing as many friends as we can and spending time with Simona's mother Cinzia. We enjoyed a number of great meals - the delicious Mexican at Rosa Mexicana in midtown stands out (Eli is a sucker for bourgeois Mexican food). We also had the pleasure of hosting a co-ed baby shower for our friend Jessie, and of sinking our teeth into Cinzia's incredible eggplant parmigiana. And we got to visit the new bar Pacific Standard in Brooklyn, which Eli's college friends recently opened. Check it out.

Catherine's company, Flavorpill, hosted a DJ party in the planetarium at the Museum of Natural History. Judging from the overwhelming number of hipsters in attendance, we were entertained by some amazing semi-live electronica. The setting was pretty awesome. I would be a great place to throw a wedding.

La Tavola Rasa goes on vacation

For the next two + months, we will be making our way across the globe and eventually back to San Francisco. Stay tuned for travel stories and, of course, food reviews.

g is for ginger

My (Simona's) efforts to make an Indian meal were curtailed by a lack of resources: I left the house with a vague shopping plan, but could not find Indian curry paste or naan in even the bougiest grocery store in town (A.J.'s). The result was a fusion of Indian and Thai flavors. We thought it was excellent and we'd make it again. The spicy chicken skewers with ginger-mint-cilantro sauce were very spicy. Not for the feeble. The ginger cilantro jasmine rice helped to fan the flames in our mouths. I snuck in a pad of butter, but that probably was not necessary.

SPICY SKEWERS WITH CHUTNEY (makes 2 servings):

Chutney Ingredients
1/2 cup (packed) fresh mint leaves
1/2 cup (packed) fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tbsp. minced fresh ginger
1 jalapeño chili, seeded, minced
3-4 tablespoons (or more) plain yogurt

Chicken ingredients
1/2 cup plain yogurt
3 tablespoons curry paste (we used red and green Thai curries)
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
4 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3/4 pounds skinless boneless chicken breasts, cut into 2-inch cubes
24 (about) 6-inch bamboo skewers, soaked 30 minutes in water
2 limes, cut into wedges

For chutney:
Blend all ingredients in blender or processor. Blend in more yogurt if necessary to make smooth paste. (Chutney can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

For chicken:
Whisk non-chicken ingredients in large bowl to blend. Add chicken and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours.

Preheat broiler. Thread 1 chicken piece on each skewer. Cover exposed part of skewers with foil. Broil chicken until cooked through, turning occasionally, about 8 minutes. Serve chicken with Cilantro-Mint Chutney and lime wedges.

GINGER JASMINE RICE (makes 8 servings):

ingredients:
3 cups jasmine rice
3 tablespoons peanut or olive oil
1/3 cup finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
3 large garlic cloves, minced
4 1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 large bunch fresh cilantro, 2 inches of bottom stems trimmed and discarded, tops and remaining stems coarsely chopped

preparation
Place rice in large sieve; rinse under cold running water until water runs clear. Drain. Heat oil in heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add ginger and garlic; stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add rice and stir 3 minutes. Stir in broth and salt. Sprinkle cilantro over. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and cook until rice is tender, about 18 minutes. Remove from heat; let stand covered 10 minutes. Fluff rice with fork. Transfer to bowl and serve.

F is for fish stew

Well, I decided to go for it and try to beat the Sicilian at her own game: cioppino (I even had to ask how to spell it). A savory tomato-based fish stew. Like many Italians, and their dishes, simple but tasty. All in all, I was very satisfied, as was my wop wife, and until someone ships in my truly Sicilian mother-in-law to disapprove, I will tell any one who can listen that I can cook it like they do in la patria. Simona said it could use "more garlic," but I think that is only because she has the tastes of a peasant.

ingredients
1/8 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 medium onion, finely chopped
1 large green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1/2 cup white wine
1 cup water
½ cup fish stock
1 large can crushed tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 pound rock cod (any white flaky fish will do), cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
4 ounces medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
18 to 24 littleneck clams
1/2 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped, for garnish
2 tsp balsamic vinegar
1 demi-baguette, sliced and toasted

preparation
Heat oil in large pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and bell pepper and cook until they begin to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic, bay leaves, oregano, white wine, water, fish stock, balsamic vinegar, and tomatoes. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium, and simmer for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Add the fish, shrimp and clams, in that order. Let cook, covered and undisturbed, until the clams have opened and the shrimp and fish are cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove lid and garnish with chopped parsley. Spoon into bowls and serve, immediately, with toasted baguette.

Phoenix eateries

Farewell, Phoenix! We'd like to leave behind a short list of local restaurants we've tried. They're not all on here, but we've included the ones we love and the ones we were told to love but didn't love so much. The restaurants in red are our favorites.

• Chelsea's Kitchen (5040 N. 40th Street): This is a great neighborhood spot run by the LGO/Radio Milano family. Chelsea's turns out delicious bougie tacos (we recently had duck tacos) and simple but satisfying grilled fish. One of our friends complains of the portion sizes, which tend more toward the Californian and less toward the American. There's often a wait.

• Cibo (603 North 5th Ave): The pizza is good and does not require the ridiculous wait time of Bianco's or LGO. The appetizers are enormous. This is a good place for a casual downtown dinner. Simona liked the bresaola pizza best.


• Circa 1900 (628 E. Adams): We popped in here during the eternal wait for a table at Pizzeria Bianco (next door). We were pleasantly surprised by the well-stocked wine bar (with a half-glass tasting option) and the creative bruschetta. It's a good place for wine and snacks.


• Coronado Cafe (2201 North 7th St): The menu tends towards California cuisine and is somewhat inventive. This restaurant gets points for its ambiance - it's set in a small restored house. It's a nice date spot.

• Fate (905 North 4th Street): The Thai food here is better than we've had anywhere else in Phoenix (warning: means nothing), and the atmosphere is more vibrant. Don't try to eat here during First Friday artwalk, unless you want to wait two hours for a table. (Although a two-hour wait outdoors on a Friday night in Phoenix in July is actually a refreshing experience. It's not often you get to bathe in your own sweat.)


• Cafe Lalibella: Highly recommended for excellent Ethiopian. One of the best Ethopian places we have ever been to.

• La Grande Orange: The pizza's buttery sourdough crust is divine. This is hands-down our favorite Phoenix casual spot.


• Los Dos Molinos: We went craving a San Francisco burrito and we left disappointed. We've eaten here twice and have been unimpressed with the food, which is usually smothered in cheese and seems to always taste the same. The atmosphere is unique, if kitschy.


• Los Sombreros (2534 Scottsdale Road): We have a divided panel on this one. Eli loves it. Simona thinks it's ok. We agree that the guacamole is excellent and that it's the best Mexican food we've had in town.


• My Florist Cafe: This is a good place to grab a salad and perhaps our favorite downtown lunch spot. The brie and berry salad is particularly tasty.


• Noodles Ranch: The place to go for a quick bowl of Pho and some fresh spring rolls. It's run by a Vietnamese family and very authentic. They also have a great ginger iced tea.


• Phoenix City Grille (5816 North 16th Street): We are sorry we judged this place as soon as we walked in. We ended up being dead wrong. The food has been great every time. The atmosphere may not be as exciting, but don't let it deter you.


• Pizzeria Bianco (623 East Adams Street): The pizza was fine - thin-crusted and simple, just the way we like. It was decidedly NOT worth the two-hour wait. Overhyped.


• Richardson's (1582 E. Bethany Home): This was recommended to us as a great place for New Mexican cuisine. We were not impressed. The wait was long and the food was very heavy.


• Tommaso's: Someone told us this was the best Italian restaurant in Phoenix. We may have been unlucky, but neither of our meals were very good. And it seemed overpriced.


• Quiessence: This is our favorite romantic spot - the restaurant is set in a tranquil South Phoenix pecan grove, and eating outside is wonderful (if the season allows). They use local, seasonal ingredients and make delicious desserts. Highly recommended.


• Zinc Bistro: We have another divided panel. Simona liked the French cuisine but Eli was not particularly impressed. There is probably little reason to make the trek to North Scottsdale if you don't live there, but if you are in the area it's worth visiting.

E is for eggs

Tonight I adapted a recipie by French Laundry chef Thomas Keller. I was a little demoralized after a series of SNAFUs, including not finding fresh chanterelles or chervil leaves (thanks a lot, Phoenix) and forgetting the shallot. In the end, the chanterelle omelets with fines herbes sauce turned out okay, though I thought the dish was a bit heavy and salty. Eli liked the presentation and decided that we'd try the recipe with different fillings, perhaps for breakfast. I accompanied the dish with a simple goat cheese salad.

2 1/2 cups flat parsley leaves
2 cups chives
1 cup chervil leaves
1/2 cup tarragon leaves
3/4 cup water
salt
2 tbsp and 1 tsp butter
1 small shallot, minced
1/4 pound chanterelles, trimmed and coarsely chopped
1 tbsp creme fraiche
4 large eggs

Preheat oven to 300.

Boil herbs for 4 minutes, remove from water with a slotted spoon, and add to a bowl of ice water to cool. Transfer herbs to a kitchen towel and wring dry. Blend at high speed with 3/4 cup water until pureed. Season with salt.

Melt 1 tbsp butter in a medium-sized skillet. Add shallot and soften for 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring, 8 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in creme fraiche, and keep warm.

In small ovenproof skillet, melt 1 tsp butter over moderate heat. In a small bowl, beat one egg until it foams. Add a pinch of salt to the egg and cook it in the skillet until it begins to set, about 10 seconds. Place the skillet in the oven until the egg sets, about 1 1/2 minutes.

Remove skillet from oven. Slide the cooked egg onto a plate and place a quarter of the chanterelle mix in the center. Fold both sides and roll the omelet over to make a neat package. Spoon a little of the herb sauce on top. Repeat 3 times with the remaining eggs and serve at once.

New Mexico favorites

Roasting chilis

We spent last weekend in northern New Mexico, where we took a cooking class at the Santa Fe School of Cooking. I could have been spared the marginally relevant introductory monologue, which included an exposition on Columbus's non-discovery of America and other historical trivia (e.g. the Italians didn't really invent pasta, etc., etc.). But the lecture on peppers and their qualities was interesting, and I enjoyed the hands-on participation in chili sauce and tortilla making. It was worth the $40 per person.

Our best meal in Santa Fe was at SantacaFe. Their chili mashed potatoes are to die for, and surprisingly simple: they add fire-roasted green and red chilis into the mix with a generous helping of butter. Farther north, at Ojo Caliente, the Artesian Restaurant prepares divine, but heavy, Southwestern-Mexican cuisine.

D is for Durum Wheat Pasta

This week I (Eli) decided to stick with simplicity: a good pasta, a light white wine and tomato sauce, and a good bottle of grapefruity New Zealand sauvignon blanc (yes - again. It is Simona's favorite). The dish was swordfish penne pasta with jalapenos. Next time, I might add some more jalapeno or crushed red. My tongue was expecting a more spritely spanking. Maybe I would add a few olives with the fish, but that's just me - ruining Sicilian simplicity.

3/4 pound fresh swordfish, skin removed and cut into 1/4-inch cubes
3 tablespoons virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and chopped
3 cups grape tomatoes, halved
1/3 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup fresh mint leaves
3/4lb pound durum wheat pasta
1 large portabello mushroom, chopped
1/2 broccoli crown cut into small florets
1/2 red onion
1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan
salt and pepper to taste

Season swordfish with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Bring water to boil and add 2 tablespoons salt. In a 12 to 14-inch saute pan, heat olive oil, garlic, onion, and jalapeno and cook about 5 to 6 minutes. Add tomatoes, broccoli, mushrooms, white wine and swordfish and simmer 5 to 6 minutes, until swordfish is just cooked. Add mint leaves and stir through. Remove from heat. Cook pasta according to package instructions until just al dente and drain. Pour hot pasta into pan with swordfish and stir to mix. Pour into warm serving dish, sprinkle with freshly grated parmesan and serve.

Seattle favorites

Lobster mushrooms at the Ballard farmer's market



Sea beans at the Ballard farmer's market

The was no date night this week as we were traveling for work, but we did get to enjoy several meals in Seattle. The highlights:

• Cioppino from Jack's Fish Spot in the Pike Place Market.
• Lunch with Helen and Paul at Ray's Cafe in Ballard. We enjoyed a view of the sound while feasting on salmon and halibut. The restaurant makes perfect bloody marys.
• The fish tacos at Flying Fish. They cover their catch of the day in a savory chili rub, grill it, and add charred tomato salsa and fresh guacamole. The handmade tortillas are more substantial, and tastier, than the traditional thin variety.
• The fresh fish at the Oceanaire. Their mahi mahi was perfectly cooked and generously portioned.

We loved watching the salmon run in Ballard. Their return home to spawn is both heroic and mystical.

C is for Curry

A couple of weeks ago, we had some tasty curried mussels at our favorite Flagstaff casual spot, the Beaver Street Brewery. Simona made her own version this week. We paired the dish with some crusty baguette and a bottle of Fume Blanc. The shrimp was an impulsive and welcome addition. This recipie makes 4 servings.

ingredients
1/3 stick butter
3 tomatoes, seeded, chopped
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon chopped peeled fresh ginger
1 14-ounce can unsweetened coconut milk
1/2 or 1/3 of the 14-ounce can water
1 tablespoon (or more to taste) Thai red curry paste
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon salt
2 pounds mussels, scrubbed, debearded
6-8 oz shrimp (we used frozen, coooked, tail-off shrimp)

preparation
Melt butter in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add tomatoes, garlic and ginger; sauté until garlic is tender, about 2 minutes.

Mix in coconut milk, water, curry paste, 1/4 cup chopped cilantro and salt.

Simmer 4 minutes to blend flavors.

Add mussels and frozen shrimp; cover and cook until mussels open, about 5 minutes (discard any mussels that do not open). Transfer mixture to serving bowl. Garnish with remaining cilantro.

B is for Berries

In an effort to tempt Simona from her pescatarian tendencies, Eli made a succulent braised duck breast with fresh berries. He accompanied the dish with roasted rosemary potatoes and sauteed chard with lemon. A bottle of Acacia Pinot Noir helped it all slide down. We used the leftover berry sauce to top some fresh vanilla ice cream for dessert.

















Braised Duck and Berry Sauce (makes 3 servings)

2 large boneless duck breast fillets, skin on
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon oil
1/8 cup balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup red wine
1/2 cup chicken or duck stock
3 tablespoons honey
1 sprig fresh rosemary
1 cup berries (we used blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries)
1 tablespoon butter

Score the duck breasts on the fatty side using a sharp knife, cutting about 1/8-inch into the skin in a cross hatch pattern. Heat a 12-inch saute pan over medium-low heat. Season the duck breasts evenly on both sides with the salt and pepper, and place, skin side down, in the hot skillet. Cook the breast until the skin is crispy and most of the fat has rendered, about 10 to 12 minutes. Pour off the fat from the pan and reserve 2 tablespoons of it on the side. Turn the breast over, and place in the hot oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, allow to rest for 3 minutes, and slice each breast into 12 slices. Serve while hot. To make the sauce, add the balsamic vinegar and red wine to the pan and cook until reduced by half. Add the stock and reduce by half again, then add brown sugar, rosemary and berries and cook for 3 minutes. Strain into a bowl and whisk in the butter to finish. Place the duck breast on each plate and drizzle the sauce around.

Rosemary Potatoes (makes 3-4 servings)

12 small red potatoes
1/2 onion, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons rendered duck fat, reserved from cooking the duck breasts
2 teaspoons rosemary, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
Salt and pepper to taste

Place the potatoes in a saucepan and cover with water. Set over high heat and bring to a boil. Cook the potatoes until tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool under running cold water. Once cool enough to handle, place the potatoes on a cutting board and slice in half lengthwise. Season the potatoes with salt and pepper, to taste. Heat a 10-inch saute pan with the reserved duck fat over medium high heat. Place the potatoes, cut-side down, in the pan with onion and rosemary and cook the potatoes until browned and crispy, about 3 minutes. Turn over, add garlic, and cook for another 3 minutes. Remove from the pan and serve with the duck.

Lemon Chard (serves 3)

1 head red chard, roughly chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 tablespoon paprika
salt and pepper to taste

Add chard, garlic, oil, lemone juice, salt and pepper to large sauce pan. Toss until chard is well coated. Sautee for five minutes and serve.

A is for Arroz con pollo

Simona made this arroz con pollo according to the Cuban tradition, and we both agreed that it was a "greatest hit." The dish is very rich in flavor but decidedly mellow, since the ingredients have ample time to fuse druing the cooking. The olives, added at the end, feel a little abrupt and out of place. Next time, we would add the olives earlier or eliminate them altogether. Otherwise, the recipie is perfect. It makes 6-8 servings.

ingredients

For chicken
5 large garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
3/4 teaspoon black pepper
About 4 lbs. chicken (we used breasts, thighs and drumsticks)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter

For rice
1 lb onions, chopped (2 1/2 cups)
2 green bell peppers, chopped
5 large garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons salt
1 California bay leaf
1 (14- to 15-oz) can diced tomatoes, including juice
1 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth (12 fl oz)
1 1/2 cups water
2 cups long-grain white rice (3/4 lb)
1 cup frozen baby peas (not thawed; 5 oz)
1/2 cup small or medium pimiento-stuffed green olives (2 oz), rinsed
1/4 cup drained chopped bottled pimientos (2 oz), rinsed

Special equipment: a wide 6- to 7-qt heavy pot (about 12 inches in diameter and 4 inches deep)

preparation

Prepare chicken:
Purée garlic, orange juice, lime juice, salt, and pepper in a blender until smooth. Put chicken pieces in a large bowl and pour purée over them, turning to coat. Marinate chicken, covered and chilled, turning occasionally, 1 hour.
Transfer chicken, letting excess marinade drip back into bowl, to paper towels, then pat dry. Reserve marinade.
Heat oil and butter in 6- to 7-quart pot over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then brown chicken in 2 or 3 batches, without crowding, turning occasionally, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer chicken as browned to a plate, reserving fat in pot.

Prepare rice and bake arroz con pollo:
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat to 350°F.
Sauté onions, bell peppers, and garlic in fat in pot over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally and scraping up brown bits from chicken, until vegetables are softened, 6 to 8 minutes.
While vegetables cook, heat saffron in a dry small skillet over low heat, shaking skillet, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add wine and bring to a simmer, then remove from heat.
Add cumin and salt to vegetables and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, 2 minutes. Stir in saffron mixture, bay leaf, tomatoes (including juice), broth, water, and reserved marinade and bring to a boil.
Add all chicken except breast pieces, skin sides up, and gently simmer, covered, over low heat 10 minutes. Stir in rice, then add breast pieces, skin sides up, and arrange chicken in 1 layer. Return to a simmer.
Cover pot tightly, then transfer to oven and bake until rice is tender and most of liquid is absorbed, about 30 minutes.
Scatter peas, olives, and pimientos over rice and chicken (do not stir) and let stand, pot covered with a kitchen towel, until peas are heated through and any remaining liquid is absorbed by rice, about 5 minutes. Discard bay leaf.

Z is for Zinfandel

Last week's dinner was a colorful and creative interpretation of the "z" theme courtesy of Eli: zinfandel-red spaghetti with broccoli. The colors of the dish were magnificent. We decided that next time, we would add cherry tomatoes and fresh spinach.

ingredients
1 3/4 lb broccoli, thick stems discarded
1 lb spaghetti
1 (750-ml) bottle red wine (preferably Zinfandel)
1 teaspoon sugar
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 - 1 1/2 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
3 oz grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/2 cup)

preparation
Cut broccoli into 1-inch-wide florets (with 1/2 inch of stem). Blanch in a 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling salted water, uncovered, 2 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a large colander to drain, reserving broccoli-cooking liquid in pot, then transfer broccoli to a bowl.

Return cooking liquid to a boil and cook spaghetti, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes (pasta will not be fully cooked). Drain in colander and return empty pot to stovetop. Add wine and sugar to pot and boil vigorously 2 minutes. Add spaghetti and shake pot to prevent pasta from sticking. Gently stir with tongs until coated and boil over high heat, stirring occasionally, until most of liquid is absorbed, about 6 minutes (pasta will be al dente).

Immediately after adding spaghetti to wine mixture, cook garlic and red pepper flakes in oil in a deep 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately low heat, shaking skillet occasionally, until garlic is pale golden, about 5 minutes. Add broccoli, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring, 1 minute.

Increase heat to high and pour spaghetti mixture into skillet, tossing with tongs to combine (skillet will be very full). Cook, stirring, until all of wine is absorbed, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in cheese. Serve immediately.

Y is for Yeast

This week it was my (Simona's) turn to concoct a recipie starting with the letter "Y" or containing an ingredient that begins with "Y." We've pretty much exhausted the obvious choices - yams, yucca, etc. So I went with yeast and made a delicious pizza bianca with goat cheese and spinach. The dough rose for about 5 1/2 hours, but it was worth the wait for the crunchy, light texture that resulted.

Crust:
3/4 cup warm water (105°F to 115°F)
1 1/2 teaspoons dry yeast (from 1 envelope)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 3/4 cups (about) unbleached all purpose flour

Seasoned oil:
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large garlic clove, minced
1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper

Topping:
10 oz. fresh spinach, stems removed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large garlic clove, minced
Yellow cornmeal
8 ounces whole-milk mozzarella cheese, coarsely grated
4 ounces soft fresh goat cheese, crumbled (about 1 cup)

Preparation

For crust: Pour 3/4 cup water into large bowl. Sprinkle yeast over; stir to blend. Let stand 10 minutes to dissolve yeast. Add oil and salt, then 1 1/2 cups flour. Stir until well blended (dough will be sticky). Turn dough out onto generously floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, adding just enough flour to prevent dough from sticking, about 5 minutes (dough will be soft). Shape dough into ball; place in large oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover bowl with kitchen towel. Let dough rise at cool room temperature until almost doubled, about 2 hours. Punch dough down; form into ball. Return to bowl; cover with towel and let rise until doubled, about 3 hours.

Meanwhile, prepare seasoned oil: Mix oil, garlic, and red pepper in small bowl. Let stand 1 hour.

For topping: Heat 2 tablespoons oil in small skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and stir 30 seconds. Add spinach and sautee 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt.

Preheat oven to 500°F. Punch down dough. Form into ball; place on floured work surface. Cover with kitchen towel; let rest 30 minutes.
Sprinkle rimless baking sheet with cornmeal. Roll out dough on floured surface to 13-inch round. Transfer to baking sheet. Sprinkle mozzarella over dough, leaving 1-inch border. Scatter chard over mozzarella. Top with goat cheese. Brush crust edge with some of seasoned oil. Set aside 2 teaspoons seasoned oil; drizzle remaining oil over pizza.
Bake pizza until crust is brown, about 15 minutes. Remove from oven; brush edge with seasoned oil and serve.