Y is for yellowtail

I was in the mood for some Sicilian-style fish, and this seared tuna with warm olive vinaigrette brought me back to my grandfather's kitchen. The caper/olive/tuna/lemon combo is one of my favorites. Some of the reviewers of this recipe (which, I should add, I adapted from epicurious) complained that the flavors are too strong. I completely disagree, but if you don't like olives or capers then you won't like this either. Serves 2.

Ingredients
4 tablespoons olive oil
two 1-inch-thick tuna steaks
6 Kalamata or other brine-cured black olives, pitted
2 teaspoons drained bottled capers
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar, or to taste
1 plum tomato, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon water
2 tablespoons finely chopped drained bottled roasted red peppers plus additional for garnish if desired
1 tablespoon finely chopped white and green parts of scallion plus additional for garnish if desired
lemon wedges as an accompaniment

Preparation

In a blender or small food processor, blend together the olives, capers, garlic, mustard, vinegar, tomato, water, and salt and pepper to taste. With the motor running add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil, blending the dressing until it is emulsified. Set aside.

In a heavy skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over moderately high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Sear the tuna steaks, patted dry and seasoned with salt and pepper, for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, so they are still raw in the center.

Transfer the tuna to plates and wipe the skillet clean. Pour the dressing into the skillet, heat it over moderate heat until it is hot, and stir in 2 tablespoons of the roasted peppers and 1 tablespoon of the scallion. Spoon the dressing over the tuna, garnish the tuna with the additional roasted peppers and scallion, and serve it with the lemon wedges.

W is for wontons

Continuing on my recent Asian theme, tonight I made shrimp wontons and baby bok choy. I would say for future reference, wontons are probably better as an appetizer than a main course. But a little extra fried shrimp goodness never hurt anybody. I used the extra plum sauce from the ume recipe (see previous post) as a dipping sauce. Makes 6-8 servings.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus vegetable oil for shallow frying
1 tablespoon minced ginger
2 tablespoons finely chopped green onions
1/2 pound raw shrimp shelled and finely chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped water chestnuts
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon white sugar
1/2 teaspoon sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon chili oil
1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water
12 won ton wrappers

Preparation

Place a wok over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil and when hot, add the ginger and green onions, and stir-fry until aromatic, about 1 minute. Add the shrimp and water chestnuts and cook for 1 minute. Add the soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil and chili oil and stir to combine. In a small bowl, combine the cornstarch and water and add to the shrimp mixture, stirring. (The mixture should thicken immediately.) Transfer to a bowl or plate and let cool before assembling the won tons.

Keeping the won ton wrappers covered with a damp kitchen towel, place 1 won ton wrapper at a time on a work surface with 1 point toward you. Spoon a rounded tablespoonful of filling in the center, just above the point. Fold the corner over the filling and roll to tuck the point under. (The won ton should look like a triangle). Pinch the wrapper around the filling to completely enclose, pushing gently to expel any air bubbles. Using both hands, pull the 2 side corners toward you below the filling. Overlap the corners slightly, moisten with a dab of water, and pinch to seal.

Place the filled won tons on a baking sheet and cover with a damp cloth while preparing the remaining won tons. (If desired won tons can be frozen on a baking sheet and once frozen, kept in a ziplock bag for up to 2 months.)

Fill a large pot or electric fryer halfway with vegetable oil and heat to 375 degrees F. Add the won tons in batches and fry until golden on both sides, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and let dry on paper towels.

V is for vindaloo

According to Madhur Jaffrey's Indian cookbook, this is chicken vindaloo the hard way. It wasn't that hard, but it was spicy as hell. (As always, I increased the original recipe's spice quite a bit; the version below is my adaptation.) This made us sweat and want to sop up every last bit with the naan I bought at the Indian Bazaar on Valencia. Serves 6.

Ingredients

2 1/2 tsp whole cumin seeds
3 hot, dried red chili peppers
1 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp cardamom seeds (take seeds out of the pods)
3-inch stick of cinnamon
1 1/2 tsp whole black mustard seeds
1 tsp whole fenugreek seeds
5 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 1/2 to 2 tsp salt
1 tsp light brown sugar
10 tbsp vegetable oil & 3 tbsp. butter
2 medium onions, peeled and sliced into fine half-rings
1 cup chicken stock
2 lb boneless chicken meat, cut into 1-inch cubes (lamb will also do)
2-inch cube of fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 small, whole head of garlic, with all the cloves separated and peeled
2 tbsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp ground tumeric

Preparation

Grind cumin seeds, red chilies, peppercorns, cardamom seeds, cinnamon, black mustard seeds, and fenugreek seeds in a coffee-grinder (or other spice grinder). Put the ground spices in a bowl. Add the vinegar, salt, and sugar. Mix and set aside.

Heat the oil and butter in a wide, heavy pot over a medium flame. Put in the onions. Fry, stirring frequently, until the onions turn brown and crisp. Remove the onions with a slotted spoon and put them into the container of an electric blender or food processor. (Turn off the heat.) Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of water to the blender and puree the onions. Add this puree to the ground spices in the bowl. (This is the vindaloo paste. It may be made ahead of time and frozen.)

Dry off the meat cubes with a paper towel and remove large pieces of fat, if any.

Put the ginger and garlic into the container of an electric blender or food processor. Add 2 to 3 Tablespoons of water and blend until you have a smooth paste.

Heat the oil remaining in the pot once again over a medium-high flame. When hot, put in the meat cubes, a few at a time, and brown them lightly on all sides. Remove each batch with a slotted spoon and keep in a bowl. Brown all the meat this way. Now put the ginger-garlic paste into the same pot. Turn down the heat to medium. Stir the paste for a few seconds. Add the coriander and tumeric. Stir for another few seconds. Add the meat, any juices that may have accumulated, the vindaloo paste, and 1 cup stock. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer gently for an hour or until meat is tender. Stir a few times during this cooking period. Serves 6.

U is for ume

"U" is getting tougher and tougher as we keep going through the alphabet. Pretty soon, I think we're going to have to retire it. But not yet. This week I made squab with ume (Asian plums - be careful, they have a pretty strong flavor). You can, of course, substitute chicken for squab. I think the sweetness of plum goes well with a heavy compliment of ginger and soy, so I altered my recipe accordingly (below). Serves 4.

Ingredients

2 squabs
3 cups chicken stock
1 cup rchopped green onions (roughly chopped)
4 tblsp. minced fresh garlic
5 tblsp. soy sauce
4 tblsp. minced fresh ginger
2 tblsp. dry sherry
2 tblsp. turbinato sugar
1 tblsp. honey
1 tspn. salt
Peanut oil, for frying
Steamed long grain white rice, accompaniment

Ume Plum Sauce:
1/2 cup plum preserves
1/2 cup chopped ume
2 tblsp. rice wine vinegar
2 tblsp. minced onions
1 tspn. honey
1 tspn. minced fresh ginger
1 tspn. minced garlic
1 tspn crushed red pepper flakes
2 tblsp. soy paste
1/2 cup chicken stock

Preparation

Ume sauce:

Caramelize onions in oil. Add ginger and stir for 1 min. Bring remaining ingredients to a boil in small saucepan on low heat. Reduce.

Squab:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the squabs and blanch for 2 minutes. Remove, drain, and pat dry with kitchen towels. Set aside.

In a medium saucepan, combine the chicken stock, green onions, garlic, light and dark soy sauces, ginger, rice wine, brown sugar, honey, and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add the squabs and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes. Remove and dry on kitchen towels for at least 1 hour, and up to 4 hours (refrigerated). Strain the poaching liquid to serve with the rice, if desired.

In a medium pot heat enough oil to come halfway up the sides to 350 dergrees F. Carefully add the squabs and fry until the skins are crisp and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels.

Mound rice in the center of 2 plates and drizzle with a small amount of the poaching liquid, if desired. Place the squabs in the center of the rice and spoon the Plum Sauce over the top of the birds. Garnish with chopped green onions. Serve hot.

T is for tagine

I feel like I am always singing my own praises. But this chicken tagine with chickpeas and mint was dope. I was told to pair it with a wine "with distinct spice notes," which I don't think I did, but it was delightful alongside the pinot noir I chose. I accompanied it with some couscous, steamed in chicken broth and fattened up with butter. The tagine tasted even better the next day. This makes 6 generous servings.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
8 large garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon minced peeled ginger
3 tablespoons paprika
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 cups (or more) chicken broth
2 cups drained canned garbanzo beans (chickpeas), from two 15-ounce cans
1/2 cup canned diced tomatoes in juice
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 lemon, quartered, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons (or more) fresh lemon juice

4 chicken leg-thigh pieces, skin removed, thighs and drumsticks separated
2 chicken breast halves with bones, skin removed, each cut crosswise into 2 pieces
3 medium carrots, peeled, cut into 2-inch pieces
2 cups 2-inch pieces green beans
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint

Preparation

Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, and ginger. Cover and cook until onion is tender, stirring often, about 10 minutes. Add paprika and next 5 ingredients; stir 1 minute. Stir in chicken broth, garbanzo beans, tomatoes with juices, cilantro, lemon, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice. Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer 10 minutes.

Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper; add to pot. Cover and simmer 30 minutes. Add carrots and more stock or water to cover if liquid has evaporated; cook 10 minutes. Stir in green beans; simmer until chicken and vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper and more lemon juice, if desired. Transfer to bowl. Sprinkle with mint.

S is for soup and sandwiches

Never overlook the classics. Sure, you won't see a chicken and pesto sandwich as an dinner entree at most high-end restaurants. But damn it, they're tasty! Of course, you have to remember not to get too excited with the ingredient list - I confess the one listed below is a little too busy. I think one or two ingredients could be removed if you want to safely fit this thing in your mouth.

The curried split pea soup was easy and tasty - a winner.

Sandwich Ingredients

Sourdough baguette
Mustard
Heirloom tomatoes, sliced
Baby spinach
Fresh goat cheese
Roasted red peppers
Avocado
Pesto
Chicken breasts, grilled in with onions ,olive oil, salt, garlic, and paprika

Soup ingredients

2 tbsp. butter
1 cup onion, chopped
1 tbsp. minced fresh garlic
12 ounces split peas
5 cups chicken broth
1 tablespoon curry powder
Salt and pepper

I won't insult your intelligence by telling you how to make a sandwich.

As for the soup, sautee the onion with salt an pepper for 2 to 3 minutes, then add garlic and wait an additional 1 to 2 minutes. Add peas, chicken broth and curry powder. Increase heat to boil water, then simmer at low heat 45 minutes, until peas reach desired consistency. If you want, put the soup in a blender afterwards.

R is for Ravioli

Ok, I cheated. I made these goat cheese ravioli with bell peppers and brown butter with store-bought wonton wrappers. The assembly is laborious despite the wonton shortcut. And, the ravioli need to be handled with care in the pan, as they break easily.

I would make these again, but I'd either prepare the bell pepper mixture in advance or make the ravioli in advance. Otherwise, you're looking at an hour and a half of active prep time. Either way, these tasty ravs are worth it, and they'll keep for a day or two of snacking.

Ingredients

Bell peppers:
2 small red bell peppers
2 small yellow bell peppers
1 small green bell pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup chopped onion
1/2 cup diced seeded tomatoes
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

Ravioli:
Cornmeal for sprinkling
8 ounces soft fresh goat cheese
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for sprinkling
1/4 cup mascarpone cheese
2 tablespoons chopped assorted fresh herbs (such as basil, chives, mint, and tarragon)
18 wonton wrappers

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter

Toasted pine nuts
Thinly sliced pitted Niçoise olives
Chopped fresh chives

Preparation

For bell peppers:
Char all peppers over gas flame or in broiler until blackened on all sides. Place in paper bag; seal and let stand at room temperature 15 minutes. Peel and seed peppers; chop.

Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and tomatoes and cook until onion begins to brown, about 4 minutes. Reduce heat to low; cook until vegetables are very soft and onion is brown, stirring often, about 15 minutes. Add chopped peppers and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper.

For ravioli:
Lightly sprinkle rimmed baking sheet with cornmeal. Mix 8 ounces goat cheese, 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese, and next 2 ingredients in medium bowl. Arrange 6 wonton wrappers on work surface. Place 1 tablespoon cheese filling in center of each wrapper. Using fingertip, dampen edges of wrappers with water. Fold all 4 corners up to meet in center, forming pyramid shape; seal all 4 edges tightly. Pinch top to seal. Place on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling.

Cook butter in large skillet over medium heat until beginning to brown, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes.

Cook ravioli in pot of gently boiling salted water until tender, about 4 minutes. Transfer ravioli to skillet with browned butter. Toss over medium heat.

Meanwhile, rewarm bell pepper mixture; divide among 6 plates. Using slotted spoon, top peppers on each plate with 3 ravioli. Drizzle with any remaining browned butter. Sprinkle with Parmesan, toasted pine nuts, olives, and chives.

P is for pistachios

Simona is always trying to get me to make something light, but flavorful. I am always looking for, well - fatty, salty, and starchy goodness. Here's my version of a compromise: pistachio-encrusted scallops over papaya and tangerine risotto. Presto - best of both worlds. Please enjoy (I did).

Ingredients:

Scallops
1 tblsp. olive oil
6 bay scallops
1 cup crushed pistachios
Salt and pepper
2 tsp. paprika

Papaya and Tangerine Risotto:
2 cups vegetable stock
1 cup cream (or half- and half)
2 tblsp. butter
1/2 cup diced onion
1 cup arborio rice
2 cloves minced garlic
1 papaya, diced
2 tangerines, diced

Triple Pepper Sprout Hash
1 tblsp. olive oil
1/2 each red, yellow, and green pepper, julienned
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup alfalfa sprouts


Preparation:

In risotto pan, melt butter (and a little olive oil to keep it from burning). Add onion, caramelizing until slightly translucent. Slowly add the rice to the pot, stirring constantly to avoid sticking, for about 2 minutes. Add garlic. Slowly add the stock and half-and-half to rice, stirring constantly to avoid sticking until the liquid is absorbed. Add the diced papaya and tangerine. Add salt and pepper, to taste.

Roll edges scallops in pistachios. Dust with Paprika. Sear pan with oil for 1 minute (or 2 - 3, if you like your scallops less rare). Season with salt/pepper, to taste.
While scallops are searing, add oil to pan and and saute peppers. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. (as always, I like a little lemon). Remove from pan, and toss with sprouts.

Serve scallops atop risotto, peppers atop scallops.